The Mandolin Family and Shopping for a New Mandolin
A short overview of members of the mandolin family
• The A style mandolin is a tear-dropped shaped mandolin with paired-string tuning that is the
same as a violin, E-A-D-G.
• The F style mandolin has a violin f-shaped sound hold with scroll and points design. It is tuned the same as an A style mandolin.
- The Mandola is tuned to a fifth below the mandolin. It has the same relationship as that of the viola to the violin.
Some also call this instrument the "alto mandola." It is normally tuned like a
viola: C-G-D-A.
- The octave mandolin is tuned an octave below the mandolin.
- The mandocello has the same relationship as that of the cello to the violin, and is tuned C-G-D-A. Today, it is not infrequently restrung for octave mandolin tuning or the bouzouki's GDAD. .
- The Greek laouto is very similar to a mandocello and is ordinarily
tuned D-G-D-A. Half of each pair of the lower two courses is
tuned an octave higher on a lighter gauge string.
- The mando-bass has 4 single string and is tuned like a double bass.
- The Irish Bouzouki is also considered a member of the mandolin family. It uses fifth-based tunings, most often GDAE (an octave below the
mandolin), although sometimes GDAD, ADAD or ADAE are used.
- The modern cittern is also an extension of the mandolin family, being typically a ten string instrument.
Here's an excellent overview by Bruce Dix of Fret magazine on what to look for when purchasing a standard 8 string "A" or "F" style mandolin:
Whether you're checking out mandolins at a music store, pawn shop, flea
market, or garage sale, be prepared to walk out the door. Take your
time, no matter how eager you--or the salesperson may be, and get some
perspective on any instrument you're considering.
Look the instrument over inside and out, top to bottom, whether it's new
or used. Does it feel solid and well-built? What about workmanship--are
all the joints, bindings, and inside glue seams neat and tight? Are
there any parts broken or missing? Do you see cracks anywhere in the
wood? Existing cracks are a problem; repaired cracks may indicate future
problems.
Does the instrument look appealing to you? Some players don't worry
about appearance; others just wouldn't be comfortable with a scratched
or cosmetically unattractive mandolin.
Inspect the hardware. Do all the tuning machines work easily? Are there
visible signs of wear? Worn or broken gears can be a big headache to fix
or replace, especially on older instruments whose parts have long since
passed out of production.
Are there loose braces or tone bars inside the soundbox? Loose braces
aren't terribly hard to reglue, but they may be a symptom of other
troubles. What about the bridge? If it's a movable or adjustable bridge
(like most mandolin bridges), do the bridge feet mate well with the
contours of the soundboard? You shouldn't be able to see daylight under
the feet.
Neck straightness is another important issue. A neck that isn't straight
makes for difficult playing, and it can cause problems with buzzes and
poor intonation. Many mandolins have adjustable truss rods, which can
aid in correcting warped or bowed necks. Not that there's anything
intrinsically wrong with mandolins that lack truss rods; most American
mandolins built before 1922 or so didn't have them, and a lot of those
instruments are still in service. However, if such a mandolin has a bent
neck, then purchasing it is a gamble. Maybe it can be fixed; maybe not.
If you're buying a bowl-back instrument, pay special attention to the
neck. "If the neck joint is cracked or loose, if it moves at all, forget
it," says Tony Marcus, a mandolinist/repairman in the San Francisco Bay
area. "Only the finest bowl-back instruments are worth fixing, since
the shape of the back makes special tools and procedures necessary."
This is especially important advice for beginners, since there are many
inexpensive bowl-backs available, and beginners are likely to consider
them.
On any mandolin, take a careful look at the soundboard--the top. Most
mandolins you will see have carved tops. There is inherent structural
strength in that arched shape. The top must be strong enough to counter
the considerable pressure that the strings bring to bear on the bridge.
It's a delicate balance. If the top appears caved-in, or warped, that's a
sign of a top which may be too thin to stand up under string pressure.
Get suspicious any time you see the soundboard contour deviating from
the natural lines of the carving. If you're in doubt, consult a mandolin
expert who has repair experience. A mandolin sold "as-is" may be a
bargain that's worth fixing, or may be a waste of money.
After you've checked out the physical condition of the mandolin, put it
through its paces. The most important consideration in buying a mandolin
is payability. And payability, of course, has a lot to do with the
physical state of the instrument--which is why your inspection comes
first. Some people might say that tone is more important; but if a
mandolin is difficult to play, you won't really enjoy working with it no
matter how good it sounds. For beginners, especially, a great-playing
instrument is far more important than a great-sounding instrument.
Novice mandolinists will need help from a friend or a coach here. Is the
action high or low? How does the neck feel? Check each string at every
fret, looking for buzzes, intonation problems (notes that sound flat or
sharp of where the pitch ought to be), and individual frets that are set
too high or too low, or are unevenly worn. You may need to put on a new
set of strings to make an accurate diagnosis; with dead strings, no
fretted instrument is at its best.
If you turn up problems in any of these areas, be aware that some are
easy to fix: Raising or lowering an adjustable bridge may remedy action
problems and buzzing; repositioning the bridge may cure poor intonation.
On the other hand, if something like a bad fretboard is at fault, then
you've got to weigh your options. Investing a $100.00 fret job in a
valuable $2,500.00 vintage mandolin makes economic sense; putting the
same kind of money into a $50.00 "noname" plywood mandolin is
impractical. It's up to you to determine whether you're buying a diamond
in the rough, or a pig in a poke.
Once you're satisfied with the way the mandolin plays, then ask yourself
how it sounds. This is a highly subjective point; ask five mandolinists
to describe good tone, and you'll probably get five very different
answers. Again, "tone" is a sensibility that you'll develop over time.
Just go with what sounds pleasing to you now, and with the best (i.e.,
most trustworthy) advice you can get.
Be sure to visit the other Bruce Bernhart Mandolin Websites:
Bruce Bernhart mandolin rock tabs
Bruce Bernhart mandolin lessons- common scales
Bruce Bernhart on buying and setting up your new mandolin
Bruce Bernhart mandolin lessons- tuning
Bruce Bernhart mandolin lessons- chord patterns
Bruce Bernhart on mandolin history and basic chord structures
Bruce Bernhart on string and saddle adjustment
Bruce Bernhart more tuning tips and whole/half steps
Bruce Bernhart on more chord patterns
Bruce Bernhart on the mandolin family
Bruce Bernhart on mandolin bluegrass chords and patterns
Bruce Bernhart on temperature considerations
Bruce Bernhart lessson on mandolin flats and sharps
Bruce Bernhart lesson on scales, circle of 5ths and meter
Bruce Bernhart on triads, gears
Bruce Bernhart mandolin chord diagrams
Bruce Bernhart on modern emergence of the mandolin
Bruce Bernhart on simple chords
Bruce Bernhart on whole and half-note steps on the mandolin
Bruce Bernhart mandolin practice excercises
Bruce Bernhart on playing waltzes
Bruce Bernhart on majors, minors and sevenths
THANK YOU FOR VISITING THE BRUCE BERNHART MANDOLIN WEBSITES!
Also, check out the Bruce Bernhart RV Websites and Blogs:
Solar power for your RV
The care and feeding of your RV battery
The sport of "geocaching" and RV refrigeration basics
The basics of RV power inversion
RV travel tips and tire care
Advanced discussion on power inversion
Tips on buying a house battery and cold weather maintenance
RV Insurance basics
Buying the right generator for your RV and portable power
RV television reception options
Care and maintenance of the RV air conditioner
Top RV destinations
RV long-term supplies and weight considerations
RV Insurance- Road protection and bodily injury coverage
RV battery types and winter charging considerations
Deep cycle battery basics